Surfing and the ego became something I understood very differently after years in the water.
You miss a wave.
Someone paddles around you.
Someone else catches three in a row.
And suddenly…
you’re angry.
Embarrassed.
Trying harder.
Wondering if people noticed.
Wanting one good wave to prove something.
Sound familiar?
I used to think ego in surfing meant arrogant guys screaming in the lineup.
But I realised mine looked completely different.
Mine looked like:
letting waves go
feeling guilty catching waves
being scared to fall
trying to earn my place
wanting people to think I surfed better than I did
Surfing became more enjoyable the moment I realised:
ego isn’t confidence.
Ego is attachment.
Quick Answer
Ego in surfing isn’t just arrogance or showing off.
It can show up as:
- comparison
- fear of judgement
- needing validation
- perfectionism
- giving waves away
- trying to prove yourself
- frustration when sessions don’t go to plan
Ironically, surfing often becomes more enjoyable when you stop trying to surf well and start surfing for the experience instead.
When we’re stressed or anxious, these patterns become even stronger. Learning simple breath control techniques through surf apnea training can help create more calm and clarity in the water.
Jump to Section
- What Ego Actually Looks Like in Surfing
- My Ego Didn’t Look Like Confidence
- The Scarcity Trap
- Why Comparison Ruins Surf Sessions
- Surfing Gets Better When You Stop Performing
- Ego Can Hide as Humility Too
- Final Thoughts
What Surfing and the Ego Actually Looks Like
When people hear ego in surfing they usually imagine:
- loud surfers
- aggressive locals
- showing off
- dropping in
But I’ve realised ego often looks quieter than that.
It can look like:
- needing validation
- surfing for approval
- feeling embarrassed after mistakes
- chasing bigger waves
- comparing yourself constantly
- trying to prove something
Sometimes ego looks like trying to protect identity.
And sometimes it looks like shrinking.
I think a lot of surfers quietly stop enjoying surfing because they become more attached to performance than experience.
My Ego Didn’t Look Like Confidence
People talk about ego in surfing like it only belongs to loud people.
But mine looked quieter.
I’d turn around and let people take waves.
I’d think:
“They’ll do more with it.”
“If I fall I’ll waste it.”
“I don’t deserve this one.”
That still comes from ego.
Because the focus is still:
me.
How I look.
How I perform.
How I’m judged.
When I started surfing for enjoyment instead of identity…
everything changed.
Many fears become amplified when we attach ourselves to imagined outcomes rather than staying present. Shark fear, fear of failure and fear of embarrassment often follow the same pattern. The mind jumps into the future while reality remains much simpler.
The Scarcity Trap
One of the biggest ego patterns I noticed in myself was scarcity.
Not enough waves.
Not enough opportunities.
Not enough time.
I’d sit there for hours waiting for one wave…
Then hesitate because I didn’t want to waste it.
That pressure made me surf worse.
I see this in a lot of surfers.
Every wave feels loaded.
Every session feels important.
Every mistake feels personal.
But surfing changed when I realised:
there will always be another wave.
And honestly…
I started catching more once I relaxed.
One of the biggest traps I see is how quickly ego turns into self-criticism. If that sounds familiar, have a read of Why Negative Thoughts Get Worse While Surfing.
Why Comparison Ruins Surf Sessions
Comparison quietly destroys surfing.
Especially now.
We watch clips.
Perfect waves.
Perfect turns.
Perfect lives.
And then expect ourselves to surf like people with twenty years more experience.
I used to watch surfers doing things I couldn’t do, and feel fear about wasting the wave if i was to take it
I’d think
“They deserve the wave more.”
That sounds humble.
But really…
it’s still ego.
Often the fear isn’t really about the wave. It’s about what pulling in, falling or failing might say about us.
Because the attention stays on self judgement.
Surfing became lighter when I stopped trying to impress people and started asking:
Did I enjoy that?
A lot of the pressure surfers feel in the lineup has very little to do with surfing itself. It often comes from a desire to belong, avoid judgement, or prove something to ourselves or others.
This can become even more noticeable when learning to surf later in life, especially when you’re surrounded by surfers with decades more experience. Comparison becomes easy, but it rarely helps. The ocean doesn’t care how long you’ve been surfing. It only asks you to be present for the wave in front of you.
Surfing Gets Better When You Stop Performing
Some of my best surfs happened when nobody was watching.
No pressure.
No proving.
No expectation.
Just surfing.
Ironically…
performance improved too.
I think this is why people often surf better overseas.
Less pressure.
Less identity.
More play.
The more attached I became to looking good…
the worse I surfed.
I noticed this most in Indonesia.
The days I surfed best weren’t usually my most technical sessions.
They were the days I forgot to care.
Warm water.
Good people.
No pressure.
Just surfing.
Negative thoughts and self-criticism often appear when we’re more focused on protecting our identity than enjoying the experience. We become attached to how we think we should surf instead of accepting where we are right now.
Ironically, many surfers blame themselves when the real issue is riding equipment that doesn’t suit their ability level. Choosing the right surfboard can remove a huge amount of frustration and make progression feel far more enjoyable.
Ego Can Hide as Humility Too
This one surprised me.
I always thought humility was the opposite of ego.
But sometimes it isn’t.
Sometimes saying:
“I’m not good enough.”
“They deserve it more.”
“I shouldn’t go.”
…is still ego.
Because attention stays stuck on:
How am I perceived?
How do I compare?
How do I look?
Real humility feels lighter.
You catch the wave.
Fall.
Laugh.
Try again.
I experienced this myself after becoming a parent, when part of my identity as a surfer disappeared for a while. I wrote more about that journey in Surfing as a Single Mum.
Final Thoughts
Surfing has taught me more about myself than almost anything.
Not because the ocean changed me.
But because it exposed things that were already there.
Fear.
Scarcity.
Comparison.
Wanting approval.
Wanting certainty.
And strangely…
surfing became more enjoyable when I stopped trying to become a better surfer and focused more on becoming someone who enjoyed surfing.
You don’t need to prove yourself.
You don’t need the biggest wave.
You don’t need to earn your place.
You’re already out there.
That’s enough.
Related Reading
Surf Apnea Training for Surfers
Why Negative Thoughts Get Worse While Surfing
Why Women Feel Intimidated in the Surf Lineup
Am I Too Old to Learn to Surf?
FAQ Section
Why do some surfers stop enjoying surfing?
A lot of surfers stop enjoying surfing when sessions become about proving something instead of experiencing something. Pressure, comparison, expectations and attachment to performance can slowly remove the fun.
What is the surfer mentality?
The surfer mentality emphasises a deep connection with the ocean, a sense of adventure, and a relaxed, go-with-the-flow attitude. Surfers often prioritise living in the moment, appreciating nature, and finding joy by riding waves. This mentality helps them stay calm and focused, both in and out of the water.
Why is surfing so spiritual?
Surfing is often considered spiritual because it involves a profound connection with nature and the ocean. The experience of riding a wave can feel meditative and transcendent, allowing surfers to be fully present and in tune with their surroundings. This connection fosters a sense of peace, mindfulness, and a deeper understanding of oneself, aligning with many aspects of spiritual growth.
Does surfing release dopamine?
Yes, surfing releases dopamine, a neurotransmitter associated with pleasure and reward. The physical activity, the thrill of catching waves, and the sense of achievement all contribute to the release of dopamine. This not only makes surfing enjoyable but also reinforces the desire to surf more, creating a positive feedback loop.
What is a surfer personality?
A surfer personality is typically characterized by traits such as a laid-back attitude, a love for adventure, and a strong connection to nature. Surfers are often seen as free-spirited, open-minded, and resilient individuals who embrace the challenges and unpredictability of the ocean. They value experiences over material possessions and often seek a balanced, harmonious lifestyle.
How does letting go of the ego improve surfing?
Letting go of the ego improves surfing by allowing surfers to be fully present and focused on the experience rather than worrying about external validation or comparisons. This shift leads to a more relaxed and enjoyable surf session, fostering better performance and personal growth. Without the ego’s interference, surfers can connect more deeply with the ocean and the moment, enhancing their overall surfing experience.
What are the benefits of surf apnea training on land?
Surf apnea training on land helps improve breath-holding capacity, lung function, and overall water confidence. By practicing controlled breathing exercises and apnea walks, surfers can simulate the underwater conditions and prepare for the challenges of hold-downs. This training enhances their ability to stay calm and manage breath efficiently, contributing to safer and more enjoyable surfing sessions.
How can shifting emotional states impact surfing performance?
Shifting from a Reactive State to an Empowered State can significantly impact surfing performance by promoting feelings of joy, peace, and flow. When surfers are in an Empowered State, they are more relaxed, creative, and intuitive, which helps them read waves better and execute maneuvers with ease. This positive emotional state enhances overall performance and enjoyment in the water.