🌊 Why Surfing Can Mess With Your Head More Than You Expect
You’re sitting out the back waiting for a wave…
And instead of feeling calm, your mind starts going:
- “I’m not good enough”
- “I messed up the last one”
- “I’m going to miss this wave too”
Sound familiar?
I’ve been there — and so has almost every surfer at some point.
👉 Surfing isn’t just physical — it’s deeply mental.
And when your head isn’t right, it shows up instantly in your surfing.
🧠 Why Negative Thought Loops Happen in Surfing
Surfing creates the perfect environment for overthinking:
- waiting between waves
- pressure to perform
- comparison in the lineup
- frustration when things don’t go right
👉 Your mind fills the gaps.
And if you’re not aware of it, it spirals quickly.
1. Create Awareness First
It might sound strange, but have you ever truly “listened to yourself” while paddling out?
We often go about our day-to-day lives with a critical inner voice – These self-limiting thoughts can weigh us down, making us lack confidence. It sucks enjoyment out of surifng when your critising yourself and start to let the ego take over. More about ego here.
Try this:
Imagine your thoughts are being recorded while you’re in the water.
Ask yourself:
- Am I being supportive… or critical?
- Would I talk to someone else like this?
👉 Just noticing your thoughts starts to break the pattern
What you speak of internally creates an outer dialogue. Every thought we have forms a belief that forms an attitude, which determines the outcome.
2. Fix Your Environment (This Matters More Than You Think)
What you surround yourself with shapes how you think.
I’ve personally removed:
- TV
- radio
- negative media
My world is mostly:
👉 surfing + work + positive inputs
And it makes a huge difference.
Tips:
- Home and Surroundings: Clear out old, unwanted items and do a spring clean. Fill your home with things that spark joy, or hang positive quotes. Save affirmations as screensavers on your phone as good reminders.
- People: Spend less time with negative or toxic people and surround yourself with those who lift your spirits. Call a friend who makes you laugh or join a new community that helps you grow.
- Media Consumption: Limit exposure to negative news and mindless social media. Instead, watch a funny comedy, a feel-good show, or listen to an inspiring podcast. Notice how much better you feel with these simple swaps.
3. Try Physical Exercise
We all know that exercise creates feel-good endorphins, but making it a consistent habit can be tough. However, even small changes can have a big impact on your mood and surfing performance.
What helps:
- short daily movement
- stretching before bed
- light workouts
I personally:
- sauna 3–4 times a week
- do breathwork + quiet time
👉 30–40 minutes can completely reset your mind
Tips:
- Start by simply moving your body more than usual. Put on some upbeat music and dance, or take a walk while listening to an exercise playlist.
- Challenge yourself with an extra ten minutes a day of a new move or keep-fit video on YouTube.
- Involve an accountability buddy and try a new class or sports club.
4. Talk to Someone (Don’t Keep It In)
Surfing can feel isolating when you’re stuck in your head.
But connection changes everything.
Talk to:
- a friend
- another surfer
- a coach
👉 You’ll often realise you’re not alone in how you feel
If you’re really stuck in it, talk to someone. Honestly, it makes a bigger difference than most people think. If you don’t have someone you feel comfortable opening up to, something like BetterHelp is an easy way to get support without overcomplicating it.
5. Use Gratitude to Reset Your Mind
This sounds simple — but it works.
Try this:
Write down 3 things after a surf:
- a wave you caught
- something you improved
- something you enjoyed
👉 This shifts your focus from “what went wrong” → “what’s working”
6. Stop Comparing Yourself (This One Kills Progress)
Social media makes this worse.
You see:
- perfect waves
- perfect surfers
- highlight reels
👉 But that’s not reality
7. Fix the Real Problem (Not Just Your Mind)
Sometimes it’s not just mindset.
👉 It’s skill.
If you’re:
- missing waves
- struggling to stand up
That frustration turns into negative thinking.
👉 Start here:
8. Build Confidence Through Breath Control
Fear plays a huge role in negative thinking.
Especially:
- wipeouts
- hold-downs
- bigger surf
When you improve your breath control:
- you stay calmer
- you commit more
- your surfing improves
👉 Learn how to train your breath for surfing
9. Overcome the Scarcity Mindset
This is a big one in surfing.
👉 “There aren’t enough waves”
👉 “I need to catch this one”
This creates:
- stress
- rushing
- poor decisions
Shift it to:
- “There will always be another wave”
- “I’m here to enjoy it”
👉 This alone can completely change your sessions
Instead:
- focus on your own progress
- track your improvements
- celebrate small wins
Insight from Greg Long:
Greg Long, one of the most respected big-wave surfers, emphasizes that your sentiments are dictated by your perspective. Shifting from a scarcity mindset to one of gratitude and abundance can transform your surfing experience. He advises surfers to acknowledge their good fortune and set intentions of having fun rather than focusing on outcomes.
🧠 A Simple Reset You Can Use in the Water
Next time you feel stuck:
- Take a slow breath
- Notice your thoughts
- Let them go
- Refocus on the ocean
👉 Keep it simple
🌊 Final Thoughts
Surfing is meant to feel:
- free
- fun
- connected
But when your mind gets in the way, it can feel like the opposite.
The key isn’t to eliminate negative thoughts completely.
👉 It’s to stop letting them control your experience.
And once you do that…
👉 everything in your surfing starts to open up again.